2009年3月25日

Macro Photography for Beginners - Part 1

The advent of digital photography swept away one of the most challenging problems in image capture: how to shoot macro without a pile of specialised gear. Now you can get down, dirty and close in the image capture business and make macro the digital way with a 100 per cent success rate.

Image by ~jjjohn~

Image by ~jjjohn~

I know I’m not alone when I say that macro photography is an absorbing activity: to be able to reach into ‘near space’ and record an image that is not easily visible to the naked eye is an attractive option. There is nothing more satisfying than to make a huge print of an insect, mineral specimen or any small object that is normally so tiny to the naked eye and captured with the technique of macro photography.

To shoot macro in the days of film — aside from the requirement of using an SLR camera — you needed a few add-ons to take highly magnified images of extremely small subjects. You could begin by slipping a dioptre lens to the front of the existing standard lens … this would impart a degree of magnification; you could also install extension tubes between your normal lens and the camera body; you could also acquire a set of macro bellows and place them between lens and body; and finally, you could invest in a fairly expensive — and optically superb — macro lens that was dedicated to macro shooting; another option was to fit a reversing ring that allowed you to fit the lens on backwards … this improved the lens close up resolution and allowed to you to focus much more closely. But to be honest, it was a hassle — although you can still use these methods if using a DSLR to shoot macro.

These days, digital does it with a dash! With a digital camera — compact or DSLR — even newbies are surprised by how easy it is capture really, really big shots of tiny subjects.

In truth, you can make digital macro photography as basic or as complex as you wish it to be: even with a budget, $200-special digicam you can capture images of the tiny world before you, subjects as small as a matchbox, a match-head or even tinier. The higher-priced compact digicams can do it even better, some offering macro shooting with a powerful zoom lens, so you can stand back a bit.

The other approach is to use a DSLR; it is surprising how powerful a macro camera a circa-$1200 DSLR can become.

Image by macropoulos

Image by macropoulos

What is Macro Photography?

First, an explanatory note for all those with a modicum of photo history and tech basics: the term macro used to refer to the capture of an insect or whatever, that resulted in an image on the 35mm film frame (24×36mm) that ranged from 1:10 to 1:1 the size of the original subject. For its part, the term micro referred to a film image that was larger than 1:1 life size; micro photography could easily give you a 35mm film image of an ant that was itself larger than the original ant.

A CCD or CMOS sensor can be as tiny as 3×4mm, so any definition term that applied in the film days is now obsolete. But the rules that apply in accomplishing successful and satisfying macro photography still stand.

Normal photography works in using a camera to record a sharp image by adjusting the lens-to-sensor distance to attain precise focus: for distant subjects at infinity, like landscapes, the lens is positioned at a minimum lens-to-sensor distance; to capture sharp images of closer subjects, like people, the lens-to-sensor is increased.

In macro photography, a sharp image of a tiny object requires the lens to be positioned much closer still, with the lens moved even further out than for normal photography.

As far as my investigations go, just about all compact digicams and most dSLRs have a selectable macro mode. In some cameras you can select macro mode via an external control, while in others you must access the viewfinder menu.

Think about it: no extra lenses, no macro tubes or bellows, no special lenses. What a wonderful world in which to shoot macro!

Image by macropoulos

Image by macropoulos

Tips for Macro Photography Beginners

Being curious about how digital cameras can capture macro so easily I investigated the subject. Here are my findings, gained by chatting to the tech expert at a major camera company.

Engage macro mode on a digicam and the system adjusts the lens elements to re-arrange them into an array that best suits close focusing. Quite a feat, as even simple camera lenses have a surprising number of lens elements to juggle.

Unfortunately, by engaging macro mode with the vast majority of cameras you lose control of both the lens aperture (f-stop) and shutter speed.

Why is this so important?

The best macro photography — regardless of camera — requires that you use the smallest lens aperture to gain optimum image sharpness and depth of field. Using a small lens aperture means you need more light, so you need to extend the exposure time to make a correctly exposed photograph.

So you can’t reduce the lens aperture to a smaller, more favourable setting; nor can you slow the shutter speed to permit the use of a smaller lens aperture.

For the keen macro makers I’ve discovered a few digicams that do allow the use of macro mode and lens and shutter speed adjustment (see Chosen Few).

With DSLR cameras the macro operation is somewhat different. Select macro and you activate a different chain of events: with any lens fixed to the camera, engaging macro mode on the camera commands the lens aperture to close to its minimum, so extending the depth of field and allowing you to move closer to the subject.

Shooting macro with a compact digicam is easy but you have to forgo a fair bit of control and you need to understand that the demands of an amateur as far as resolution and colour quality are less stringent than the pros.

The pro approach would be to use a purpose-built macro lens on a DSLR. Dedicated macro lenses are not cheap but they are optimised to operate at closer than normal distances. With macro lenses you are unlikely to experience problems such as colour fringing and optical distortion; many macro lenses also compensate for the additional exposure necessary when racking out the lens to distances very different to those used in normal photography.

Read the Second part to this series at Mcro Photography for Beginners Part 2.

Image by ecstaticist

Image by ecstaticist



Macro Photography for Beginners - Part 2

Today we continue to look at some tips for beginners wanting to explore the world of Macro Photography. Check out part 1 of this article at Macro Photography for Beginners Part 1.

In macro photography you should aim to capture a sharp image of your tiny subject with all — or nearly all — of the subject in sharp focus. Using a macro lens on a DSLR is the optimum way to travel.

Image by ecstaticist

Image by ecstaticist

There is one more thing to be taken into account: you must keep the subject still and the camera must be locked off.

For macro shots you need a steady camera and subject, a small lens aperture and a slow shutter speed. Then you need more light to cope with the slower shutter speed.

Keep Your Distance

In macro shooting the optimum camera-to-subject distance is a long one. Place the camera too close to the subject and there’s a good chance you’ll throw a camera shadow onto it; at too close a distance you may distort the subject.

Using the macro mode on a compact or DSLR and wanting to capture a very, very close detail of your subject, it’s most likely you’ll move the lens to the widest angle/shortest focal length setting. This also presents the possibility of optical distortion.

Macro lenses for DSLRs are best chosen in the longer focal lengths: many lens makers market a 100mm macro — ideal for the task.

Canon and others make stabilised macro lenses. The idea is sound in principle: if you have to handhold the camera/lens combo while you snare close shots of a bug, a stabilised lens would seem to be the answer to the need for a steady camera.

The truth is that there are too many variables in the equation: moving camera, moving focus, moving subject. And then you have to frame the shot properly.

The best approach is to keep the camera steady.

image by macropoulos

image by macropoulos

Chosen Few

There are some cameras that offer lens/shutter speed adjustment in macro mode.

The Canon PowerShot S5 IS has a long 12x optical zoom lens along with 8.0 million pixels of image capture.

And it has a terrific macro mode: unlike most others digicams this camera’s macro button is a separate control placed on the lens barrel and not on the mode dial. With this arrangement you can select shutter or aperture priority and macro simultaneously.

Now you can reduce the lens aperture to a minimum setting and attain the optimum depth of field when the camera is close to the subject.

Another macro-friendly model is the Canon PowerShot SX100IS. It is unusually well set up for macro shooting: with the SX100IS you can engage macro mode along with aperture priority, allowing selection of a small aperture for depth. This camera has a 10x zoom and 8.0 megapixels of image capture.

Another contender in the maxi macro stakes is the Olympus’ SP-5500UZ. There are others that have the same benefit. Aside from an extraordinary 18x optical zoom lens it has 7.1 megapixels on its CCD. When selecting macro the camera still allows you to use the zoom, so you can back off and yet still take big closeups.

In a slightly different fashion, the Ricoh Caplio R6 helps you light subjects in macro mode, an often difficult chore with the camera positioned so close to the subject. The Ricoh’s Auto Soft Flash function dampens the output of the camera’s flash. This avoids ‘washing out’ the subject at close range.

image by macropoulos

image by macropoulos

Viewing

When shooting macro with a digicam always use the LCD screen for viewing — never use the optical viewfinder. Use the optical finder and you will encounter parallax error … what you see in the finder is not what the camera will photograph.

Distortion

Digital compact camera optics are a compromise between size and price. With budget cameras you will probably encounter spherical distortion: shots taken at the wide end (even in macro!) of the zoom will barrel out at the edges; shots taken with the zoom set to tele may show distortion which forces the picture edges to bow inwards, like a pincushion.

Try shooting a square subject — like a stamp — and you’ll see what I mean. The solution is to use the Spherize filter in Photoshop to straighten the barrel distortion on the affected image.

Depth of Field

This is possibly the core factor in successful macro shooting. When you focus, the depth of field includes the plane you focus on plus an area in front of and behind that plane. Half of the sharpest area will be in front of the plane and half will be behind it.

Depth of field varies with the lens aperture, focal length and the camera-to-subject distance. Competent use of it will give you a subject in pin-sharp focus with the background in soft focus: a soft focus background isolates a subject, making it stand out sharply.

image by jerryhsu2k

image by jerryhsu2k

No Confusion

Take care to position your macro subject against an appropriate background: no confusing fuzz, no bright spots; dark backgrounds for light subjects and vice versa.

Lighting

You’ve probably set up the camera only centimetres from the subject. Flash is useless at a close working distance — it would overexpose the shot. If you’re working in filtered daylight (my ideal) you can help by scattering small reflectors around the subject. But in most cases you’ll have to live with the existing ambient light level.

Arguably the optimum light for macro work is to set up a scrim of translucent material (like rice paper) over the subject. In this fashion you can shoot in bright sunlight, with the subject illuminated by soft light.

Light Loss

If you’re working with a DSLR you might like to use extension tubes or close up bellows to shoot macro. If you do, you will encounter one problem: the further the lens is extended from the image sensor the more you will encounter light loss, requiring the camera to use a larger lens aperture.

Focus

In macro photography it is advantageous to have full charge over focusing — especially when you want to have control over that part of the subject you want in focus. If your camera allows manual focusing, use it and manually focus on the part of our subject that is the main point of interest.

Image by Matthew Fang

Image by Matthew Fan

2009年3月17日

D700与D200之不完全比较

    一般来说电子产品越新得越好,单反相机也是如此。但是单反相机升级速度相对其他相机来说升级的速度要慢的很多。特别是相机特别是比较经典的机型使用的人还是很多的,在色影无忌上很多在Show最新相机,但是也有很多非常漂亮相片用D2D50D100等五六年前的相机。当然从这个角度来说,单反升级实际没有太多必要,比如从D200D300或者D80D90。单发相机还有一个非常重要的因素就是镜头,特别是那些有ED的镜头,买了肯高的折返镜头才发现,没有ED片子色散有多厉害,简直是无法容忍。一个ED片子至少需要添加1000块,所以ED越多的头越好,价格也越贵,Nikon的镜头中有两个以上ED的头,价格很少低于5000。通过这段时间使用,但是D200D700还是非常有必要的。D700作为全副单反更加适合镜头,能够让大部分镜头出来最佳光圈。而d200稍微困难一些。

         使用D200约入手不到3年,大约照了3w左右。D700入手约3个月。D200满千张约6个月,开始有自己满意照片大约4000张左右。D700上周末达到千张,出现满意照片大约100张左右吧。 D200使用的顺手,D700仔细看了几遍说明书也没有太大问题,D700的说明书较D200多了快到一倍了,从250页到500页。不过相对而言,还是比较简单明了的。所以一旦NCS一家的用得比较熟了,换了相机上手还是比较熟悉。D200使用的头基本18-200挂头,D700使用24-70大三元中焦端。D200使用也用了80-40085的,D700使用14-24超广角亮骚的头。D700也试试了80-400,相对而言D700对焦速度好像稍微快些。

D200D700基本都是N家中高档机器,继承性很大。先说共性吧,总的来说这两个做工不错,虽然不能扔到水里面用但是下着小雨用还是没有问题的。D200曾经和Onlighting被困在郊外,照相了,淋着小雨没有问题,D700脱身于D200,所以两个无论从重量还是手感和大部分设置基本都差不多,所以上手也非常快。两者像素数量也差不多,基本都是1000万左右。使用电池也相同,电池使用时间好像D700稍长,可能是因为使用CMOS的原因吧。

         下面说两者差异, D700D200从使用的角度来说,两者D700操控性能更复杂一些,多了一些功能比如Live ViewInfo键,其它好像基本和D200没有什么差别。本质上来说,最大差别是FXDX差别,这个差别表现在几个方面,D700单个像素受光面积大约是D2004倍,所以D700的高ISO的效果简直是超出想象,ISO800条件下,效果简直和ISO100没有任何差别,还有在暗光条件下,照片也没有什么噪点。D200从来没有使用过超过ISO 400,即使去鸟岛边上照微距光线太差,使用也仅仅是ISO 400D700则完全不同,经常使用ISO 800,效果也是非常优秀,看不来任何问题。所以使用百微镜头可以使用F20以上光圈,还保持曝光时间在安全快门以下,D700可以连拍数量好像较D200进步不少,使用14RAW+FINE JPG连拍可以一直按着快门,听着快门咔咔,心情真是不错,在设置中最大连拍大约可以100张左右,连拍的时候没有发现收到限制,同时写入速度也快了很多,D200鸟岛照鸟的时候,小鸟腾空按着快门大约连续按10张左右,需要稍微停一下,等写入到CF卡中才可以继续进行,落下了不少好照片。除了这个以外,实际D700的操控感觉较D200是下降了,首先重量好像稍轻,用单反的人一般不大会考虑重量。即使稍微重一些也没有问题,此外那个方向键键稍微有些涩,也许是新的,但动起来不是非常顺手。还有D700与电脑连接不知道为啥一定使用XP带的相机连接而不直接使用直接磁盘形式,感激很不舒服,需要单独购买读卡器,否则传照片不是非常方面,D700对焦屏还行不是特别光滑,感觉不是非常顺眼。

         总而言之,D200D700绝对是N家经典机型之一吧。希望今后能够有更好的照片。

14位和RAW的力量以及GPS的D700情况新更新

尼康的最新相机,比如D700等的照片变成14位(缺省还是12位),我想D3和D3X应该更加好一些,这个已经是非常大的进步了,相当于全部动态范围增加了4倍,相对于D200等相机在HDR时需要连续曝光,然后找专门软件根据每张照片曝光情况做出HDR照片,使用14位只要是正常曝光,使用RAW文件进行调整就可以得到HDR效果的照片,如下图。
发件人 HDR
RAW文件确实非常强大,使用Photoshop插件CameraRAW,经过调整几乎完全能够实现自己想要的色彩、曝光、色温等,真是神奇,为啥以前没有使用。

用了D700发现LOCR不能写入GPS信息了,得到JPG文件头文件全部不能读了,但照片可以正常显示,试了若干次,实在没有办法发给EMail给LOCR的开发者。不错很快就回信了,说LOCR对尼康相机支持很差,没有办法,同时也推荐了一个德国公司软件GeoSetter。马上下载解压(完全绿色的),基本没有问题了,对于D700的JPG文件支持很好,坐标等信息全部写入,同时也写入了NEF文件,唯一遗憾是NEF文件中不能写入高度。不过已经很满足了。

2009年3月10日

新升级

发件人 Equipment

今天我非常激动,因为最近花完了本年度的发烧的预算,用阿香的话,就是败家完了,但同时也发现Raw文件的巨大好处和新镜头的巨好了。稍微总结一下两三年发烧历程,也在此向近年来帮助我发烧和败家的同志们表示感谢。

1 感谢的是帮助我跌入泥坑的大龙,让我知道了什么叫做单反和摄影的快乐。其中D200快门数28000,照片26000,影像居多。18-200的旅游头也是我的最爱,照片指数也是最高的。走得路也比较多,其它比较难拿的头,最远也不多方圆30km

2 经过了一段时间,发现基本配置已经不能满足要求,特别是把手册和Thom Hogan's Complete Guide to the Nikon D200看完以后,虽然还是木头,但是有冲动,正好小侯同志,日本归来,问我带点啥,正好吗,镜头,网上查了又查,没有感觉,想了想,不能买贵的太奢侈,也不能最便宜,也没有转换系数概念,选来选去,85 F1.8的和灯神SB800,到手,高兴,但不知道怎么用,特别是SB800,全部日文说明书,晕菜。后来就就付付在IT168上面找了扫描的说明书,看了,又在美国Nikon找了英文的,台湾繁体的,终于可以使用了,尽管很简单,但是一直也没有得心应手,经常忘记了该做的事情,特别是和老白同志去照HOPG,竟然忘记了怎样解除锁定,丢人啊。现在好了,自从出了SB900,闪光灯说明书也可以从尼康官网下载了。85 F1.8在我这里就是鸡肋,很少使用,一直想出了,但第一个定焦头,用了几次照片比想象的好,也就将就留着了。

3 下面闪亮出场的就是Further WU同志,在香港不是白呆的,帮我完成了两个让我爱不释手东东,每次都必须使用的乐摄宝的Primus AW北极纪念版的摄影包,价格不菲,但皮实方便,自从购买几乎就是相机的家园。当然美中不足是,很难携带超过200的头,也不能放电脑,上面格挡用处不大。还有一个我的所爱,105 F2.8 Macro,百微,买了是冬季,在家也照相,TINA养花,可以照,右手咖啡可以照,真是兴奋啊。随后春暖花开,运河两岸金属所内,这个百微简直就变成挂头啊。当然大宁等,也用了,人头也非常不错。

4 这个时间当然也有其他小的斩获,因为看了色影无忌上面说了近摄镜,国内大自然就很好,所以请Onlighting到淘宝上买了一堆,不同放大倍数和直径以及偏光镜,近摄镜好像作用不大,但影响测光,所以搁置,偏光镜加上竟然有四个暗角,不用。好在不算太贵,有时偶尔用用,或者拿出来玩玩。

5 下面就是比较有经历的事情了,这里要感谢阿香和京阳了。我和onlighting骑车去鸟岛看到若干野鸭,200已经不足够了,筹划买400,这个时候京阳说一个哥们是老鸟可以请教,去了建议70-200F2.8+TC2,回来上网一查竟然超过16000,算了吧。再到网上逛逛,发现尼康还有80-400VR,虽然IVR,应该不错,价格不到1W,请阿香日本帮忙,也行便宜一些吧。回来就用。发现还是老鸟对,这个镜头缺点比优点多。菜鸟的感觉不行。超过400怎么办,泥坑的400500600超级远摄价格是老白同志三辆汽车的价格,不敢想啊。但心中还是痒痒,在网上查了又查,找了又找,正好看到肯高出了800F8.0的折返头,呵呵,暗下心思,请阿香看看,价格不贵,可以接受,买了带回来,发现竟然没有转接环,不能用,我衰。只好再次求阿香了,希望不久就可以打鸟了。

6 因为经常更换镜头,所以低通滤光片会出现灰尘,正常,因此需要购买清洁套装,开始是Petex的果冻笔,随后是粘附刷,小物件,阿香日本网上购物,请成老师带回来的,不容易啊。

7 雷同志需要微距,把我的微距组合带过去了,发现效果满意,同时雷同志为了获得更大放大比,专门购买了皮囊来,但精深太小了,没有办法,不过便宜了我,我可以使用皮囊了。呵呵,原来帮人时候,图谋不轨啊。小插曲,为了给阿杜同志进行表面张力测定,其实简单得很,就是微距照相,但接连发生了两件认识的进步事情,为了减少按快门对于照片影响去购买了永国的快门线,淘宝搞得,买了快门线阿杜同志竟然不用了,真是善变啊。更加令人不能原谅的是,再次看了说明书,发现竟然不用快门线也能够解决的方法,可以定时照相。真是欲哭无泪啊,好在不算贵,今后还能用,如买了原厂的,不跳楼也得跳河啊。雷同志还有一个50F1.8的标头,这个是泥坑中最便宜的镜头,感觉很水,虽然长期占着,很少用,直到第二次儿童摄影,发现了标头的好处。大光圈有大光圈的道理啊。

8 Further WU同志还完成了SONY GPS CS-1,这个东西是偶然看见的五折跳楼价,所以买了,但sony做得太烂,可用但不好用。所以看见介绍长天的GPS,就请Macro在北京拿下,查了一下那个长天GPS芯片,好像很生猛,但用起来绵羊级的。

最近是在ET帮助下升级的,还有TINA一贯支持。正好今天是女人节,对于TINA的不问只闻,更加应该感谢。

闲话少说,还是看片是主要的,更蓝的南湖,几乎每周六日落时分都在那里逡巡,现在weather网站相当不错,查天气预报,也预报日出和日落,当然懒人日出很难了,但日落还是可以的。日落的意思太阳在地平线下,只要提前20min赶到南湖没有问题看到夕阳。每次都有新感觉啊。

发件人 更深的蓝

2009年1月3日

冰河

    现在东北北国冰封万里尽雪,上个周六和onlight出去照相,天降大雪,雪中骑车除了路滑,景色也别有风味。雪大路滑,行慢,路近,到了王家湾水坝不走了,照相。冰封浑河行,走至河心岛野鸭飞,兴奋、幸福,挥之即飞即远,大喊Onlighting,继续搜索,听见遥远的Onlighting大喊我在冰中,原来进到冰河之中。哎,可怕可急,疾跑过去,无恙。太冷啊,急回。没有心情了,回家。不过onlighting没有心里障碍,元旦一日租了婚纱,请我和大龙为他们照北国冰雪婚纱。呵呵,真是美丽冻人之举。这次有去落水之地,好在本次没有意外。呵呵。到了湿地,更多人在滑冰,看着我们冻人,真是兴奋啊。不知道Onlighting是否愿意把他婚纱给大家看看,小伙子很精神很潇洒,大姑娘很冻人很可爱。呵呵,感觉真是不错。不过经验不足,很多照片感觉没有想象,照人和照物,最大区别是,给人照相需要双方(婚纱是三个人)很好沟通,我想今后会更好一些吧。呵呵,也谢谢Onlighting

2008年12月15日

20 Quick Street Photography Tips从 How to Photograph Fireworks Displays 作者:Darren

I was going through an old ‘Digital Photographer’ magazine this afternoon and came across a good Top 20 list of tips for those wanting to get into Street Photography.

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Photography by Carlo Nicora

Here’s their headings an a few thoughts on each one from me:

  1. stree-photography.jpgPhotography by Carlo Nicora

    Less is More

    - don’t take too much equipment and travel light. It’ll make you less obtrusive and you will be able to move around for the best shot quickly.
  2. Off the Beaten Track - don’t just go to all the touristy shots - try to get ‘behind the scenes’ and ‘real life’ scenes.
  3. Stolen Moments - anticipate moments between people before they happen.
  4. True Colours - black and white is often where it’s at with street photography but at times colourful situations arise and can really make a shot - be on the look out for these.
  5. In the Background - what’s goign on behind your subject can actually ‘make’ the shot. Billboards, signs, graffiti and other visual elements can really make a statement in a shot.
  6. Dare to Go Diagonal - don’t just hold your camera horizontally - experiment with angles. Street photography is a less formal medium - make the most of it.
  7. Opposites Attract - shots which challenge the ‘norm’ in terms of composition and story/subject matter can be powerful. Look out for ’surprising’ subject matter and composition.
  8. What a Performance - street performers, parades and other street entertainment can be great subject matter on the street.
  9. Off the Streets - other places where people gather in number can lead to great shots in this genre - zoos, fairs, shows, parks, sporting events etc all can be worth trying.
  10. New Angle - find ways to get up high or down low - these new perspectives on subjects that are familiar can lead to eye catching shots.
  11. Practice makes Perfect - over time and with practice your photography will improve. You’ll not only get better at technique but also spotting the things to focus upon on the street.
  12. Fortune Favors the Brave - sometimes the best thing you can do is to get close to your subject - this can be a little confronting but will produce powerful images
  13. Fun in the Sun - often we try to avoid shooting into the sun and the shadows that direct sunlight can produce - in street photography breaking these ‘rules’ can lead to great shots.
  14. Ready to Pounce - have your camera out and ready to shoot at all times. Things can move quickly on the street so if you’re not ready you’ll miss lots of opportunities.
  15. Revise the Revisit - street photography is not all about spontaneity - if you see a scene with potential don’t be afraid to keep coming back to it until you get the shot.
  16. Frozen Motion - the street is a place of movement - to capture it and still get sharp shots make sure your shutter speed is fast enough. 1/125 or more with an ISO of 400 is what this article recommended as a base. I also think it can be fun to experiment with slower shutter speeds on the street - capture the movement as blur.
  17. Street Wallpaper - blend in with the scene - shoot unobtrusively and unnoticed.
  18. Life Through a Lens - ‘exaggerating perspective will help set your subject in context and provide a more forgiving depth of field’ - use a wide angle lens (or even a fisheye).
  19. Expect the Expected - people can be suspicious of street photographers so shoot in places where people expect to see people doing photography. Smile, be polite and be willing to delete images if people protest.
  20. Location, Location, Location - really this is what it is all about. Choose places where people interact with one another and times when they are present.

What would you add (or subtract) from this list of Street Photography Tips?

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