2009年12月26日

Nikkor世界:Auto物语

Nikkor世界:Auto物语 

Nikkor数十年来精品不断,从普及型的变焦套头到极限型的顶级牛头,无忌上已经介绍得不少,泡菜们想必也已经相当熟悉。无奈碍于国内开放历史和经济条件,对70年代前的Auto镜头了解不多,也没有系统介绍的文章。出于兴趣,本菜对Auto关注已久,收集过大部分市场上常见的Auto头,发个帖子以期抛砖引玉,水平浅薄难免疏漏,希望坛子里的方家、资深不吝赐教

尼康1959年高姿态发布大F专业单反相机,由此拉开了F王朝的序幕。F卡口在当时起点相当高,令人瞩目。开放光圈取景、自动收缩光圈曝光方式使F卡口可以经过不断的完善一致沿用至今,也因此得以留下近半个世纪的积累:当年最早一批F卡口老镜头在今天仍然能无保留地发挥作用,我们也有幸可以完整地领略光学技术40多年来一点一滴的进步,体会进步的艰辛。
与大F同时期发布的第一批有4只镜头:Auto S 3.5cm/2.8、Auto S 5cm/2、Auto P 10.5cm/2.5、Auto Q 13.5cm/3.5,这四兄弟有个名字叫“Tick mark lens”,外观上跟后来的Auto有点小区别:使用英尺标示和代表红外距离标志的红色字母R。这一套四支最初的Auto镜头现在已经成了收藏的珍品,无处寻觅。加上稍后还发布了一只超广角nikkor-O 2.1cm/4。F卡口系列镜头正式走入人们的视野,而且一开始就涵盖了从超广到中长焦段。
这里要提一提“Auto镜头” 的完整定义:自动收缩光圈的F卡口镜头。----换言之,当时的一些F卡口镜头如nikkor-O 2.1cm/4、nikkor-T 105/4,因为没有配置自动光圈,并不能称为Auto头。非Auto的F卡口镜头出的极少,是F家族里的绝对少数派。不算PC移轴镜头和固定光圈的折返镜头,非Auto的F卡口镜头一共只推出过3只:nikkor-O 2.1cm/4,Micro nikkor 5.5cm/3.5,nikkor-T 10.5cm/4。另外还有一些鱼眼镜头和特殊用途的F卡口镜头,也没有自动光圈或不设光圈机构,属于特例。有意思的是,当年为了节约成本或是技术原因而推出的F卡口非Auto镜头,现在在二手市场上已经无一例外的变成稀缺收藏品。
Auto镜头中值得一书的经典之作不在少数,例如第一支28mm广角2.8cm/3.5,第一支不需要反光镜预升的超广角UD20mm/3.5,第一只带有近距离校正系统(CRC)的Auto N 24mm/2.8,生产年数最长的同结构镜头35mm/1.4,直到今天也备受推崇的105/2.5…温故知新,了解当年的经典无疑对我们开阔眼界,加深对镜头的认识大有好处。
1974年最后一支Auto P.C 800mm/8大炮发布,nikkor镜头不再使用Auto标识。其间一共生产了超过80款Auto镜头,涵盖鱼眼到超长焦的所有焦段,以及建筑、医疗等用途的特殊镜头,全系列产品线阵容强大,扎实的制作和出色的光学素质奠定了nikkor的专业地位。在这些距今近半个世纪的摄影镜头中,既有开创性的作品,也有一些直到今天也仍然极具实用价值的经典镜头。Auto镜头成为当时日系摄影镜头的一杆旗帜。

本帖主要简单叙述一些比较常见和值得推荐的Auto镜头,附部分测试对比图片


1 · 标准镜头篇
尼康在Auto时代一共推出过F2、F1.4、F1.2三种光圈共8个型号的普通标准镜头,加上GN 45mm饼干头以及55mm微距标头,共有十数款之多。


·平实之宝50mm/F2
Auto S 5cm/2是尼康随大F一起发布的第一只单反标头,7片的光学结构,比后续版本Auto H 50mm/2多了一片。看结构图,前镜片的第一片几乎完全平面,实际上它是一片略带屈光度的矫正镜片,作用是把整个镜片组控制在50mm的标准焦距。尼康对此解释,因为单反结构的限制,必须为反光镜箱留出足够的空间,当时的标准镜头焦距普遍在55~58mm左右。在材料、镀膜等技术水平的限制下,为了把焦距做到统一标准的50mm,只好使用了这样折衷的办法。而第二版因为使用了新的材料和矫正的办法,已经不需要这样的矫正镜片,这就是后来6片镜片组的Auto H 50mm/2。加上后期的Auto H.C 50mm/2,小光圈Auto标头一共3款。50/2标头小巧轻便,即使全开光圈也十分锐利,收缩一档光圈可以得到四角到中心都非常均一的高质量画面,其素质之高,即使是跟现在的新版标头相比也未必吃亏,加上低廉的价格,一直以来倍受赞誉。


·通用的1.4大光圈标头
尼康第一只大光圈单反用标头Auto S 5.8cm/1.4,1960年发布,只出现了两年时间即被Auto S 50mm/1.4代替。这支镜头很有意思,同时占有F卡口的一个“第一”、一个“唯一”,还有一个“最”:第一支大口径标头,唯一一支单独规格的标头,最短命的nikkor镜头,加上年代久远存世不多,这枚标头也是炙手可热的收藏对象之一。5.8/1.4为何会迅速被50/1.4取代,尼康没有做过解释,我想大概还是“50mm情节”的驱使吧。看起来,5cm/2和5.8cm/1.4都有那么一点仓促发布的意思。
50mm/1.4是成熟的产品,有白嘴的Auto S版本(1962)和黑嘴的Auto S.C版本(1972),两者除了外观上的区别,只有镀膜不同:后期的“C”表示使用了新的多层镀膜,可以进一步提高抗眩光的能力,色彩表现理论上也更好。双高斯7片5组结构,全开光圈时也有不错的表现,收一档光圈就足够分辨率和反差,最优的成像出现在F4左右。


·更明亮更迷人,1.2的大眼睛
顶级标头Auto S 55/1.2和Auto S.C 55/1.2分别于1965年和1972年发售。跟大部分的Auto镜头一样,全金属制作非常精良,拿在手上沉甸甸的感觉十分扎实,通透明亮的大眼睛令人着迷。两个版本结构上没有区别,后者只更新了镀膜。这两版大眼睛全开光圈时都不是太理想,画面看上去有一点薄雾般的眩光,或者是通常说的比较“肉”,要收缩到2.8左右才会有好的表现。改进镀膜的带来效果在这种极大光圈的镜头上通常最明显,但实际上只在很少的极端情况下才能看出微妙差别,加装遮光罩仍然是防止眩光最有效的方法。综合而言, 55/1.2是一款为最大限度拓展使用范围而诞生的极限镜头,用来承担别的镜头都难以胜任的任务,本身并不以画质见长,但实际上这款镜头在收缩光圈的情况下似乎更容易得到完美的画面,其发色和空间感都十分突出,在现代DSLR的配合下更值得细细品味。


·进入微距世界的Micro-nikkor
N家最知名的手动微距标头显然是Ais55mm/2.8,这支镜头可谓一代传奇,达到极限的分辨率,艳丽的色彩,扎实的机械性能,铭镜该有的特点都可以在它身上找到,却保持了极低廉的价格。实际上传奇的55微早在Auto之前就开始了不凡之旅。最早的微距标头可以追溯到1956年发售的S卡口micro-nikkor 5cm/3.5,以此为基础推出的第一支F卡口的Micro-nikkor 5.5cm/3.5在1961年发布当时引起了轰动,这支镜头没有配置自动光圈,但能达到1:1的放大率,产量极少是收藏家手里珍品。两年后修改设计加上了自动光圈,改称Micro-nikkor Auto 5.5cm/3.5。同时因为机械结构上的原因,取消了单镜体1:1的放大率,只做到1:2,需要1:1的时候着要加上配套的M近摄接圈 。实际上他们的光学结构并没有修改,因此Auto55微距头没有1:1放大率的说法不完全正确,只不过是因为机械结构的限制必须另加接圈才能实现罢了。后期的Auto P(P.C) 55mm/3.5改变了外观,但光学设计一直沿用未作大改。


·另类天塞
GN 45mm有两个版本:1969年的GN Auto 45mm和74年的C镀膜版本,最近对焦距离0.8米,重量仅有135克,其中有9枚光圈的版本。
这枚GN 饼干在Auto系列中算是比较特别。GN是 “guide number”的缩写,用于闪光指示。此镜头的特点是镜身上除了有对焦距离指示,还有两行GN数值指示闪光量。配合对焦环上的一个小卡钳,可以跟光圈环锁定联动,随着焦点距离的变化,光圈也跟着变化以保证闪光摄影曝光准确,这个简单的功能在当年可以简化闪光曝光量的繁琐计算,在今天普遍装备TTL闪光技术的情况下已经没有什么现实意义了。如果不把对焦环和光圈锁定,这枚饼干头就是一支普通的天塞,特点也跟大部分天塞头大同小异:小巧、锐利+高反差,但是实用上限制较多,更适合收藏把玩。



2 · 中长镜头篇,Auto85/105/135/180/200/300

·常青树105mm/2.5
1959年随大F推出的10.5mm/2.5可谓历史悠久,是最早的Auto镜头之一。实际上这支镜头的历史还可以向上追溯到1949年为S旁轴系列设计的nikkor-P 10.5cm/2.5,而更早的原型来自蔡斯sonnar,原始设计跟德国人脱不开干系,甚至有一说是出自德国人留下的图纸,这一点大概无法考证了。
第一支Auto卡口的P 10.5cm/2.5采用5片3组的Sonnar结构,早期有9片光圈的版本,后期改为6片,成像锐利,反差略高。这支镜头,也就是通常称为白嘴105的nikkor-P auto 105一开始便受到了高度赞誉,成为尼康最受欢迎的中长焦镜头。最初的设计沿用了17年,之后由清水义之主持作了重大修改,采用了5片4组的Xenotar结构,明显改善了近距离的像差,在球差、慧差的控制上也更进一步。更重要的是新的105大大改善了散焦控制,获得了柔和自然的过渡。光圈叶片也由前一代的6枚改为奇数的7枚,更利于焦外点光源形成漂亮的星芒。这支新的105就是后期的黑嘴版Auto 105mm,它的出现一改尼康镜头过于生硬,焦外不佳的形象,成为日系镜头也可以拥有徕卡蔡斯一样高素质的典范。优异的成像和焦外控制使它在尼康专用人像镜头出现之前,一直是最理想的人像之选。新105的设计师清水义之后来主持设计了多款Ai/Ais镜头以及显微镜头,成为尼康最有威望的光学专家之一。这支105后来经历了K版、Ai版、Ais版几次重大的改版,但光学结构一直沿用,直到105/2.5手动镜头停产,一共历时34年,是尼康最有生命力的光学设计之一。
 

·实拍印象
黑嘴的Auto P 与 P.C版的比较。大家都知道这两只区别只在镀膜,但实际上这点区别也可以忽略。C镀膜最先使用在镜片数达到9枚的大光圈镜头28/2和35/1.4身上,根据尼康官方的介绍,多层镀膜可以在更广域的波长范围内抑制镜片间的反射和增加透光率,在普通的中小光圈镜片数量并不太多的镜头,单层镀膜并不会对镜头的性能有太多负面影响。105正是此类成熟、简单的设计:前后只有5片镜片,光圈只是适中的2.5,前口径52mm相当小型。实拍上两款镜头无论是分辨率、色彩、反差,还是极限的抗眩光性能,都没有明显差异。通常的情况下如顺光、阴天、傍晚的柔和光线下,它们都非常出彩。焦内清晰锐利,焦外柔和自然化开,的确不负盛名。只是P.C版多出一个心理优势,理论上更完美,这在二手市场的受追捧程度上表现非常明显。
白嘴的Auto 105分辨率很高,反差大,成像风格稍微偏硬朗,所谓的“德味”不明显。分辨率的对比,按个人的测试结果也是黑嘴稍胜,但白嘴的反差大一些,很多情况看起来会感觉更清晰。紫边问题,各版本都不太明显,只在个别极端的情况下会出现,程度也并不严重,在老镜头里相当难得。
105/2.5系列一直延续到Ais时代,如前所述,黑嘴P 105开始,其光学结构一直没有做过修改,因此在大致的成像风格和水平上没有明显差别。在产的30多年中,这枚镜头经历过几次镀膜改进,从最初的单层膜,到C镀膜,到后来尼康使用的一种叫做集成镀膜(NIC- Nikon Integrated Coating)的技术,根据镜头不同的类型和镜片材质分别匹配每一镜片的镀膜是指达到最佳的整体性能。105镜头给我们提供了一个机会,可以在相一光学结构平台上了解不同镀膜技术对成像风格的影响。个人印象,P.C auto 105的发色讨好,似乎更有特点,后期Ais的表现最全面,能在各种光线下还原出漂亮的色彩。这些不同实际上非常轻微,需要十分小心分辨才能体会得到的程度。
 

·历史的讽刺,镜片数量最少、定价最低的nikkor镜头:nikkor-T 10.5cm/4
这枚105不属于经典的105/2.5家族,发布于1960年。区区三枚镜片“凸凹凸”的结构,口径34.5mm,当时定价13,000日元,只有105/2.5的一半不到。这枚镜头另有一个S旁轴版本,外观、结构完全一致,只是简单的把卡口改为F,为了节约成本甚至光圈机构也照搬了旁轴的原型,没有配置自动光圈,因此不属于Auto镜头之列。nikkor-T 10.5cm的开发,出发点完全是给高贵的105/2.5配备一个低廉的小弟,当时打出的口号正是:平价,轻便,谁都用得起的nikkor。有意思的是,40多年后的今天,当年最廉价的nikkor在二手市场上价格连续翻番身价大大超兄长,而且难觅踪影无处寻求,成为收藏家手里的稀罕物。

·
nikkor-H auto 85mm/1.8(1964.略)

nikkor-Q auto 135mm/2.8(1964.略)

nikkor-P auto 180mm/2.8(1970.略)
nikkor-Q auto 200mm/4(1961.略)

nikkor-H auto 300mm/4(1969.略)



3 · 广角尼康篇
广角尼康的名声从Auto时代开始广为流传,这显然与尼康在广角领域投入的巨大开发力度和获得的开创性成果分不开。
1950年之前,135照相机无论旁轴还是单反,能使用的广角镜头极少:旁轴镜头的焦距越短,边缘失光越严重,导致光圈无法做大;单反相机因为反光镜箱的存在,镜头后焦距至少要留出35mm的空间,因此当时最广的镜头也只到40mm。直到爱展能Angenieux发明逆望远结构,于1950年推出第一支单反相机用的大光圈广角镜头Retrofocus Type R1 35mm/f2.5,135广角镜头终于获得突破性的进展。
·划时代的nikkor-H auto 2.8cm/3.5
28mm/3.5这个规格现在看起来实在是太不起眼了,但在当时却是非常高级别的一支镜头,甚至可以称为135单反相机迈向“万能的相机”之路的一支极为重要的镜头。
F卡口的2.8cm之前,尼康已经有了一支广受赞誉的S旁轴用的广角W-nikkor 2.8cm/3.5,此次的开发目标是:比旁轴用的2.8cm镜头性能更进一步。主持此镜头的开发工作的是协本善司,他曾主持设计了尼康历史上多枚划时代的镜头,是尼康历史上最有分量的光学专家之一。设计之初,协本的思路是在爱展能35mm的基础上,保留大致的原结构把焦距拓展到28mm,结果试行发现原型的性能不能达到设计要求,最终协本还是另起炉灶开发出新的结构。协本善司的新结构采用了两片大直径的凸、凹镜片构成总体为凹的前组,后组由之前普遍通行的四片“凸凸凹凸”镜组改为“凸凹凸凸”结构。协本的修改极大的改善了原爱展能设计中“凸凸凹凸”后组无法有效消除前组带来的各种像差这一缺陷,在全开光圈时也可以得到良好的画质。最终,nikkor-H auto 2.8cm/3.5的各项性能比S卡口广角W-nikkor 2.8cm/3.5更上一层楼,完美达成设计目标。
大直径前组占据了52mm口径的几乎全部,因此镜头上的刻字只能移到边缘,2.8cm/3.5成为唯一一支刻字在前口边缘的广角Auto,这支白嘴黑字的2.8cm也被认为是最秀气最漂亮的一支Auto。
协本开发的“凸凹凸凸”后组并不局限于28mm镜头,在之后的nikkor-O auto 35mm/2 (1965)、nikkor-N auto 24mm/2.8」 (1967)、nikkor-UD auto 20mm/3.5 (1968)等大口径广角镜头上也得到了广泛应用,不仅如此,包括1994年发布的铭镜AF 28mm/1.4D、2000年发布的AF 14mm/2.8D在内,AF广角镜头也全面使用了这一“凸凹凸凸”后组。1994年发布的AF28mm/2.8,更是使用了与最初的2.8cm/3.5惊人相似的两片凸凹前组、4片“凸凹凸凸”后组共6片6组的结构。不仅nikkor广角,目前市面上的各种逆望远结构广角镜头说起来也正是以这枚auto 2.8cm/3.5为范本,协本善司在广角镜头开发的成果可谓桃李满天下。在这个意义上,大概可以说由爱展能发明的逆望远结构到nikkor的auto 2.8cm/3.5发布才真正的圆满了吧。
 

·CRC近距离修正系统
镜头设计,通常以无限远/平行光为基本条件,但摄影的条件根据题材差异也各有不同,单一的设计标准未必能满足多样化的要求。表现在随着摄距的减少,镜头收差急剧变大,像面弯曲的影响使边缘成像严重劣化,此问题在焦距越短、光圈越大的镜头越严重。前述的auto 2.8cm/3.5是一枚划时代的广角镜头,但在近距离摄影时表现不尽人意,为保证能得到均衡的图像不得以把最近对焦距离被限制在比较大的0.6米,这实际上也限制了摄影者施展的空间。折衷的办法可以在不明显劣化成像的程度上简单的放宽限制,多少算是聊胜于无。但是协本善司明确表示反对这样做,他认为这是一个必须解决的缺陷,不能回避。并且提出了在近距离对焦状态下使用特别校正手段的解决思路,这个课题一直拖了7年,才终于由协本的学生清水义之在nikkor-N auto 24mm/2.8(1967)上实现。
CRC系统在原理上并不复杂:auto 24mm/2.8以第6与第7枚镜片为分隔,将镜片组分为前群和后群,之间的很小一个间隙的变化对球差几乎没有影响,但对非点收差的消除有很大作用,因此在近距离对焦状态下大量出现的非点收差可以通过调节此间隙来消除。此系统的出现堪称广角镜头的飞跃性进展,nikkor广角随后广泛应用了CRC技术,后期的Ais 28mm/2.8最近对焦距离甚至达到20厘米,是有口皆碑的广角微距。其他如85mm人像镜头、105微距镜头上也都使用了这一系统,从近距离到无限远都能获得优异的成像。


·梦超广:nikkor-UD auto 20mm/3.5
前文提到过,大F问世不久尼康就发布了一支超广nikkor-O 2.1cm/4,但这支从旁轴移植过来的超广角在使用上有诸多不便:首先它是旁轴系统上常用的对称式结构,后组过长以至于必须预升反光镜并配合外置取景器使用;其次,它无法装入自动光圈机构,单反相机的优势被完全埋没了;另外, 21mm焦距来源于旁轴系列,用在单反系列中略微有一点混乱。UD 20mm和N 24mm大致同时开始开发,1968年发布,至此F卡口的广角系列(35、28、24、20)基本配置完整。
仔细观察N 24和UD 20的结构图,会发现两者有极其微妙的相似,实际上这是同一位设计师在同一时期设计的两枚大广角镜头,都沿用了协本善司“凸凹凸凸”后组的开发思路,因此两枚镜头有非常相似的表现:镜头变形极小足以胜任建筑摄影方面的应用,画面均一性非常出色,明锐度、细节描写方面无可挑剔。nikkor-UD auto 20mm/3.5作为尼康第一支为单反开发的20毫米超广角,取得了极高的成就,并且一直没有被它的后辈们超越,即使用今天的标准来评价,它的各项指标也属于一流之列。
UD20mm口径达到72mm,身高近70mm,重量390克,镜片多达11枚,最近对焦距离0.3米,外形威武看起来不像是广角而更像一支大口径的人像镜头。实拍上,这枚超广的分辨率非常高,全开光圈的成像就足以令人满意,色彩、反差均有极佳的表现。大口径前组会吸收一些多余的杂光引起眩光,但仍然能保持足够的反差和分辨率。畸变控制是这枚超广镜头最值得夸耀的地方,几乎不可察觉的变形使UD20在拍摄风光、建筑类的题材方面具有很高的实用价值。


·夜色迷人:大口径广角28mm/2和35mm/1.4
1970年代,高感光度仍然是个遥不可及的梦,要进一步拓展弱光下的摄影领域唯有大光圈一途。nikkor-N auto 28mm/2和nikkor-N auto 35mm/1.4同在1971年发布,是最早使用C镀膜的auto镜头。早期出厂的部分没有标上N.C,但实际上这两型从一开始就是C镀膜,并没有单膜的版本。Auto 35/1.4前期配置9片光圈,后期修改为7片,同时把标示改为N.C 35/1.4,区分比较容易。两只广角大光圈镜头外形体积重量都十分相似,是非常相称的弱光两兄弟。
这两只大光圈广角镜头在设计上的难点,在于全开光圈时的收差控制,为此尼康把原型中枚数较少曲率较大的大口径镜片分解为曲率较小的多枚镜组,通过之间的配合获得了极好的效果,同时两枚镜头的口径也由此得以小型化统一到52mm。其中35/1.4自1971年发布以来,历经多次改版,其间升级过镀膜,修改过镜片材料,但光学镜组的基本设计一直不变,直到今天仍然在产,生命力超过37年,是最长寿的nikkor;而它的52mm口径也一直是市面上最小型最紧凑的一支35/1.4。
实拍上,两只大光圈广角头拥有令人叫绝的画质,全开光圈的成像也能提供优异的分辨率,色彩厚重油润,在夜色下的表现让人着迷,拍摄人像有一种奇妙的活生感,这大概就是所谓顶级镜头应该有的素质了吧。



·艰难的历程:历经三次大改的35mm/2.8
Nikkor auto的三支Auto 35mm按光圈大小分别是2.8、2、1.4三个规格,涵盖低中高档次。其中35/2.8最早发布(1959),从最初的nikkor-S auto 3.5cm/2.8到停产时的Ais版本,光学结构经过三次大改。前文说过,单反用广角镜头的逆望远结构直到1961年2.8cm/3.5的发布才真正成熟,这枚3.5cm实际上是在天塞结构前外加一个凹凸镜片构成的前组实现的小广角,这种“将就”型的设计在性能上没有任何优势,反而在制造装配上要求非常高,以至于当时虽然与大F同时发布,却因生产上的滞后晚了两个月上市发售。3.5cm的问题促使尼康在发布之初就立刻着手改进,但天塞后组的先天限制,既不能很好的修正各种像差也无法降低装配要求,在原结构基础上进一步优化几乎不可能,只能推倒重来。新版的Auto 35采用了高斯型后组,由原来的7片5组改为7片6组,相比前一代球差、彗差和像面弯曲都得到很大的改善。第二代Auto35/2.8生产了大约11年(1963-1974),没有再遇到生产上的问题。前文协本善司为2.8cm/3.5开发的“凸凹凸凸”后组是个神奇的组合,解决了大部分广角镜头的难题,但并没有应用到两代Auto35/2.8上。直到Auto时代的尾声,尼康开始大幅调整生产线,同时也因为35/2采用逆望远结构收到良好成效的影响,决定再次改进35/2.8。最后一次改进力求使用更少的镜片以配合新的生产流程,同时必须得到更高的性能,其核心便是采用当时已经十分成熟逆望远设计。最终版的设计结果与主流的广角结构非常一致,也使用了类似逆望远+“凸凹凸凸”后组的形式,定型设计一直沿用到停产。没有找到明确的说法, 但35/2.8大概是nikkor同型镜头大改次数最多的一支了吧。这三支不同结构的35/2.8,一支比一支更进步,到最终版本几乎完全克服了各种收差,逆望远结构中原理性发生的桶形畸变也得到了很好的抑制。纵观尼康的三支35mm广角镜头,35/2.8经历三次大改,35/2直到最终停产也保持不变,35/1.4的最初设计更是保留至今仍然在产,可谓经典。受制于时代背景、技术条件、生产条件,一枚优秀镜头的诞生显然比想象中更加不易。我们为创造经典的伟大发明家所感动的同时,是否也该向那些坚持不懈不断改良、修正提供更高水准产品的工程师致敬呢?




4 · 变焦篇:Zoom-nikkor
可随意改变视角的变焦镜头是摄影人长久以来的梦。此设想最初出现在望远镜上,而最早的现代意义上的变焦镜头却是电影机上的放映镜头,这种镜头可以使放映机在固定的放映位置上根据场地的不同在银幕上投影出合适尺寸的画面,因此受到了极大的欢迎。根据光路可逆的原理,这种镜头当然可以很方便的应用到摄影用途上。
变焦望远镜头受到普遍的欢迎,但也存在着若干严重的缺点:其一,在改变镜头的放大率(焦距)时,焦点会发生漂移,这时需要重新对焦,此问题可以通过复杂的机械和光学方法进行补偿;其二,随着放大率增加,镜头的有效光圈值逐渐变小,这使曝光控制变得格外复杂,因此早期的变焦镜头也多以固定光圈为主,或者至少控制在一个较小范围内变动。不过,最严重的缺点还是图像的质量会显著劣化,无法与普通镜头比拟。

大F既然走的是专业路线,首要任务当然是为专业图片记者们提供足够好用的器材。1959年当时普遍装备的单反镜头只有定焦,可换式镜头虽然可以应付各种场合,但使用上却有诸多不便,尤其是体育报道方面,摄影师无法随意走动,场上的状况也瞬息万变,专业图片记者们对变焦镜头的渴求越来越强烈。1959年尼康首先发布了一支专业变焦镜头Auto NIKKOR Tele-Zoom 8.5cmF4~25cm F4.5,最近对焦距离4米,重量2Kg,售价是令人咂舌的10万日元(一说为15万日元)。这是尼康第5支Auto镜头,也是日本正式发布的第一支变焦镜头。在没有前例参照,缺乏高速计算机之类辅助工具的情况下,全新设计一支变焦镜头的难度可想而知。该镜头共15枚8组镜片,设计师樋口隆大量使用了复合镜片的方式,两片胶合的镜片消除色差,在缺乏超低色散玻璃材料的当时取得了极佳的效果。大量运用胶合镜片的另一个考虑是基于当时镀膜技术并不太高,将两片相对固定的镜片胶合可以最大限度减少空气/玻璃界面(15枚镜片实际看上去像是只有9枚),避免因此引起内部反光造成光雾劣化成像。此镜头明锐度高,并且在全焦段范围内保持高分辨率,没有出现明显色散,即使在后来的彩色摄影中也有相当好的表现。镜头对焦时移动前组,中段第2、第3组加上6组,夹着中间固定不动的第4、第5组运动进行变焦,在此过程中使用了机械补正手段,变焦过程对焦平面完全没有影响(定焦点设计)。这一特征为抓拍应用提供了极大的便利,而这支变焦镜头在发布的两年后也修改了设计,将原来的双环改为单环(变焦、对焦环一体),大大方便了使用,此后大部分的望远变焦镜头也都沿用了单环设计。


尼康在Auto时代发布的变焦头并不多,除了第一支专业级的8.5cm~25cm,另一支普及型的auto 43-86/3.5也很值得一书。这是日本第一支跨越50mm涵盖广角和望远端的标准变焦镜头,1963年发售。此时正好赶上越南战争全面升级,变焦带来的便利和极小的变形使它成为最适合新闻抢拍的利器,与配置卷片马达的大F一起成为各战地摄影师手中最高效的装备,迅速风靡了世界。这支镜头的初始设计实际上是35-70mm/3.5,随着对各种镜头收差的补正,参数不断修改,镜头最终定型在43-86mm,而真正的35-70一直到了14年后的Ai时期才终于得以问世,此是后话暂且不提。43-86之前,尼康实际上还公布过另一支标准变焦镜头:1961年出现在尼康目录上的Zoom-nikkor auto 35-80/2.8-4。此镜头原型当时已经试制完毕,却在投产前被临时撤下,原因是:结构过于复杂无法安排生产线,而1.1公斤的体重也在实用上带来诸多不便。这枚未面世的标变先驱也许也是第一支记录在案的尼康跳票先驱。
前述的35-80/2.8-4才是原计划中日本第一支标准变焦,而43-86实际上是当时新推出的普及型nikkorex Zoom 35相机的配套镜头,因此必须满足轻便、廉价的要求,为此设计上倾向尽量小型化和使用尽可能少的镜片组成。此镜头由9枚7组构成,根据功能分成三群:第一、三群为凸镜组,前后移动实现对焦及变焦,第二群总体为凹,位置固定负责修正各种像差。三群式的结构简单精巧、成本低廉,并且能较好地修正各种像差,在实用上具有很高的价值。此结构在后期的Ai35-70mm/3.5、AF 28-80/3.5-5.6D等多款变焦镜头上也得到了应用,最大的变化是随着计算手段的进步,原设计固定的第二群镜组变成了可移动式。

1967年尼康为专业用户推出另一支重量级变焦镜头auto 50-300/4.5,在摄影界引起了不小的轰动。这支怪兽镜头可谓空前绝后,是世界上首支变焦超过5倍的摄影镜头,它的出现把当时尼康的镜头设计能力几乎推到了极致。此镜头一共出过5个型号,其中后期的两型带ED镜片,最初的Auto型重达2.27Kg,售价12万日元,完全不在业余用户的接受范围。大变焦镜头给专业报道带来极大的便利,在类似NBA这样的室内比赛,这支镜头可以在固定的报道席上从容应付从整个场地的全景到某一面部表情的特写的拍摄,资深记者几乎人手一支。50-300大概是尼康手动时代最值得夸耀的一支变焦,这支镜头即使在今天的二手市场上身价也仍然不菲,足以证明它在粉丝们心中的地位。


5 · 后记
Auto系列作为尼康单反镜头群的先驱,不仅为尼康确立了专业大厂的地位,也是日系镜头全面占领市场的重要力量。在这批数十年前的老镜头身上,不但能很好地了解现代摄影光学技术的发展沿革,也能更好地理解多年来技术或观念一点一滴的进步和改变。拍片或把玩器材之余,品味一下历史的进程,不能不说是件其乐无穷的事。
以著名的105/2.5为例,此镜头同一规格拥有两种结构版本,分别是1959年的Sonnar版和1971年的Xenotar版。成像表现略有不同,正是跟随不同技术条件、设计思想和市场要求下的一次改进;71年版的Xenotar结构一直延续到停产,各年代的产品有镜片镀膜、外观、材料工艺上的不同,我们也得以借此相同的结构平台纵观数十年来不同时期或高调或低调宣传的各种新技术究竟如何体现在最终成像上。
另一个例子,35mm/2.8共经历三次重大改版,从一开始的不成熟到最终定型,一版比一版更完美,小小一枚镜头,折射出数十年来技术条件和设计思想的不同,可谓现代摄影镜头技术进步历程的缩影。
Auto镜头也许不是最好,但凝聚了一代人的心血,在它们身上可以清晰地看到踏实、务实的作风,体会近距离的历史接触感。了解这一段开拓时期的经典、变化和异同,也许对我们如何面对如今滚滚而来的产品宣传攻势更有指导意义吧。这也是我喜欢并沉迷于Auto镜头和F卡口的最大原因。

2009年12月21日

Photography in Extreme Cold

Photography in Extreme Cold

Sometimes some of the most striking pictures are those taken in the dead of winter. There’s something beautiful and serene about a blanket of snow lying over everything. I live in a part of Canada that is known for extreme amounts of snow and temperatures that are accompanied by the terms “Arctic cold snap” on a regular basis so I get to practice taking photos under these conditions regularly.

Image by Muffet

Image by Muffet

If you’ve recently moved to an area that experiences cold weather or you’ve been bitten by the photography bug and haven’t yet done much winter photo-snapping, you might be wondering about the best way to approach the whole process.

Here are some of the things that I’ve learned in my endless winters.

1. Carry a Ziploc bag in your camera bag

I know, that sounds kind of weird but it’s a great way to protect your camera from condensation on your lenses and even inside the body. Going from very cold outdoor weather to warmer indoor temperatures can cause problems for your camera. If you’ve ever had the misfortune (like me) to wear glasses outside in the winter, you know how quicky your lenses fog up. Now imagine that happening on all the delicate bits inside your camera. Yikes!

While a Ziploc bag is not perfect, it can help. When you’re ready to come back inside to thaw out with a hot cup of cocoa, stop first and place your camera inside the bag and seal it. THEN, place the bag back in your camera bag. No matter how impatient you might be, leave it like that for at least a couple of hours. This allows your camera to slowly warm back to room temperature. If you really can’t wait to see your photos, slip your card out first.

winter2

Image by Arielle


2. Protect your camera from snow

Most cameras can handle a bit of gentle snowfall but if you’re out there in a blizzard like the one I shot last week, you’re going to want to keep your camera undercover a bit so it doesn’t get soaked. There are cases that you can use to enclose a variety of cameras but I tend to just use a hat. I’ve gotten some strange looks from people when I pass them with one hat on my head and a matching one around my camera, but it works. I’ve also unzipped my coat and tucked the camera inside, zipping it back up until I need to use it again, but the odd shaped sticking out from your body may get even stranger glances from passerby!

3. Invest in extra batteries

If you don’t already have a spare battery you’re going to want to invest in that if you have plans to take more than the occasional outdoor shots in the winter. The colder the temperature outside, the faster your battery power will be depleted. I’ve even had a battery just about die on me the same day I fully re-charged it. If you carry a second battery (or pack of batteries if you have a point and shoot that takes AAs), don’t keep it in your camera bag or it will get just as cold as the one in your camera. Instead, place it in your pocket, preferably an inner pocket that’s close to your body. You can even wrap it up in a piece of fleece or
flannel to keep it extra toasty. There is nothing quite like the disappointment of going to take what would have been a gorgeous winter scenery shot only to realize your camera won’t turn on because your battery has brain freeze.

Image by Alan Vernon

Image by Alan Vernon

4. Keep yourself warm and dry too

When the weather is temperate and you’re comfortable it can be easy to just wander for great lengths of time with your camera. In brutally cold weather you’ll need to prepare yourself a little better. In order to withstand the cold, bundle yourself up. Consider long underwear or at the very least, a lot of layers. Wrap up with a good scarf and keep a hat on your head. Wear appropriate boots and I stongly recommend a second pair of socks.

Speaking of boots, if you plan to go traipsing around through the snow and you aren’t sure how deep it will be, it can be worthwhile to put a plastic bag over each foot before pulling on your boots. That will help to keep your feet dry which is important – having wet frozen feet can be very tough to deal with. I recently photographed the Olympic torch festivities in my area and it was unfortunately the day after a blizzard. My feet were fine until I was coming back home and the slush and snow were finally too much for my boots to handle and my feet were soaked; luckily I was almost home by the time discomfort set in. Had it happened before I was done it could have ruined my morning, ruined my shots, and made me sick to boot.

5. Pick the right gloves

Your hands might be one of the biggest problems when it comes to cold weather photography. Thin knit gloves will allow you to access your camera with ease but as a hardcore Canadian I can tell you they will NOT keep your hands warm for long, especially if you’re holding cameras and tripods.

Thicker gloves or mitts will keep your hands and fingers warm but good luck if you need to actually make use of any buttons on the camera. Even taking the picture can be a challenge due to the bulky nature of those gloves.

I’ve found two good solutions. One is to wear mitts that open at the top to reveal fingerless gloves underneath. This way your hands will remain warm and if you wiggle a bit you can actually get just your index finger out to press buttons. You can also try these which I thought were pretty inspired.

The other solution is the one I use most often. I combine two pairs of gloves/mitts. I’ll put on the thin knit type on my right hand, then pull a thicker pair of gloves or mitts over that. I can take the outer layer off as needed to take pictures, then put them back on when I’m not actively using my camera. It’s a bit tedious I suppose, but it works for me.

Image by Melinda Shelton

Image by Melinda Shelton

6. Reward yourself

When you get home, having survived a cold stint of winter photography, I suggest you reward yourself with a nice hot cup of coffee, tea, or cocoa. While it won’t do anything to improve your skills, it might improve your mood while you sit around waiting for your camera to warm up!

Do you have any cold weather photography tips to share? Let us know in the comments, and feel free to show off some of your favorite cold day shots that you’ve taken that made the weather worth it.


5 Outstanding Photography Books

5 Outstanding Photography Books

In keeping with the whole year in review lists I wanted to go back over the many photography books we’ve reviewed here at Your Photo Tips. While we, as a society, are moving more and more to the digital realm of everything (music, movies, photography) I’m not heading into getting my photography books in 1’s and 0’s. Not just yet. I’m not ready to abandon my love for books in their physical form. I want to feel the texture and be able to flip through the pages at my leisure. Having them sit on a book shelf for me to grab at a moment’s notice for quick reference is still vital to my growth as a photographer.

Besides, I like my photography books in the bold and rich color that the photographer wanted them to be seen in.

I suppose if Apple or some other company comes out with a full color digital book reader I may have to revisit these thoughts, but until that time, I want my old fashioned books. There…I said it. I feel better.

We reviewed tons of books throughout the year and while I could rank all of them I just wanted to recap a few that really stood out to me. These are in no particular order and the links point to the full reviews.

5 Outstanding Photography Books

Within The Frame by David duChemin – Within The Frame is about finding and expressing your photographic vision. A rare book on the why, rather than the how, of finding, chasing, and expressing your vision from with a camera from your eye.

I know I said that these were in no particular order. I lied. This was the best book on photography I read this year. The rest are in no particular order.

The Hot Shoe Diaries by Joe McNally – The specialty or niche of this book is centered around hot shoe flashes, speedlights, or strobes if you will. It’s not all off-camera lighting and it runs the gamut from deceptively simple applications of light and exposure to very complex setups involving multiple flashes, reflectors, flash accessories, and man power.

The Art of Black and White Photography: Techniques for Creating Superb Images in a Digital Workflow by Torsten Andreas Hoffman – Over the last few years, most books on photography emphasized explaining the new breed of cameras and how to master the digital imaging workflow. In the Art of Black and White Photography, Torsten Andreas Hoffman takes a different approach as he focuses on image compositon and image capture, with an emphysis on the creative aspects of black and white photography, as well as on the digital workflow.

The Photographer’s Survival Guide by Suzanne Sease and Amanda Sossa Stone – The reading is fundamental and filled with so much information it could actually make your head spin (this is a good thing). There are real resources and examples throughout the book of where you can find tried and true vendors sure to help your career.

The Digital Photography Companion by Derrick Story – A book to help novice and hobbyist photographers get a handle on digital photography. The images presented throughout the book are beautiful and shot using various cameras using different techniques. Chapter 2 and the size of this book really make it a great reference book that should fit in any medium or larger camera bag.

All of these books cover a different area of photography and excel at hitting thier target audience.

What were your favorite photography books you read this year?


18 Books to Grow Your Photography Bus...

18 Books to Grow Your Photography Business

1. Fast Track Photographer by Dane Sanders

What draws you to a photography? Do you really understand what it means for you to personally make the jump from hobby-est to business owner? Fast Track Photographer will help you dig deep to discover how far you are willing to go to pursue your dream career.

2. Successful Self-Promotion for Photographers by Elyse Weissberg and Amanda Sosa Stone

Before spending money unnecessarily on ads and marketing for your business, do some strategic analysis on your market and what may be the most successful bang for your buck.

3. Within the Frame: The Journey of Photographic Vision by David DuChemin

A conscious effort of artistic development is just as necessary as the steps you make with your business. DuChemin’s book will help you enter that level of “conscious-competance.”

4. Photographer’s Market Guide to Building Your Photography Business by Vik Orenstein

What field are you cut out for? Which do you want to enter? What will it take? No better guide will equip you than the Photographers Market.

5. Wedding Photography Unveiled: Inspiration and Insight from 20 Top Photographers by Jacqueline Tobi

Whether or not you are interested in wedding photography, this book by “Unveiled” will give a sneak peek on artistic expression in the midst of a variety of shooting experiences.

6. “52 Productivity Principles for Work and Life” by David Allen

There’s a great deal of competition in the photography industry. Get the inside scoop on how to make goals and accomplish them to raise the bar on your business.

7. “How to win friends and influence people”” by Dale Carnegie

The photography business is all about connections. Learn how to make connections, stand out from the crowd, be personable and persuasive with one of the original books of social networking.

8. Kevin Kubota’s Digital Photography Bootcamp .

Running and managing a studio is one of the greatest joys and challenges for business owners of photography studios. Create a systematic approach to running your digital workflow which will cut down on time – and money.

9. The Art of War by Sun Tzu

The photography industry is fiercely competitive. So how do you make your edge? One of the oldest surviving military treatises will help you develop a mindset to take competition to a new level, and come out on top – even in the wedding photography industry.

10. Understanding Exposure by Bryan Peterson

There’s no need to put off entering that “next level” of technical and artistic development with your photography. Learn the ins and outs of being an advanced shooter through Peterson’s book, and start charging a premium for your work.

12. John Harrington’s book: Best Business Practices for Photographers

An understanding of basic business doesn’t always give you the edge in owning a photography business. With unique issues specific to the photography industries, you need guidance to deal with negotiating contracts, securing liscences, and print rights. Harrington’s book is a perfect solution for discovering the business side of photography.

13. Purple Cow by Seth Godin

Nothing stands out quite like a Purple Cow. Godin’s book will guide you through the process of making your brand unique, solid, and cohesive for your clients; giving you that upper edge in your target market.

14. 2010 Photographer’s Market

Don’t want to run your own business, but enjoy freelancing? No guide will equip you better to discover opportunities for paid work better than the 2010 Photographers Market. Get the info for magazines, business, and publishers who are open for accepting work in all areas of life.

15. The Photographers Eye

Sometimes you need a little extra input to develop the artistic element of your photos. Think of your photos through the eyes of an educated designer, and watch your skills grow and develop even beyond your personal expectations.

16.The Moment it Clicks: Photography secrets from one of the worlds top shooters by Joe McNally

If you want “one foot on the coffee table, the other foot in the classroom”, there’s no better way to grow than with Joe McNally as your personal mentor. Be challenged and inspired to grow, push your own artistic envelop, and think about your photos on a level you never thought possible.

17. The Complete Guide to Professional Wedding Photography: Creating a more profitable and fulfilling business– Damien Lovegrove (Author)

Want to be fully informed with a full understanding of the wedding photography industry before you jump in? Review in depth details of artistic practice, systematic workflow, and business development to equip you with the info you need to succeed in the wedding photography industry.

18. Essential Fashion Illustration: Poses (Essential Fashion Illustrations:) – Mite Lafuente

Need to figure out how to pose your subjects to be poised and natural? Take some ques from the fashion industry to create your arson of poses to pull out during your shoots for the perfect artistic portrait.


2009年12月20日

Christmas Tree Photography Ideas

Christmas Tree Photography Ideas

For many of you, the chances are pretty high you have a Christmas tree in your living room or you can find it somewhere close at this time of the year. Here are some ideas you can try to capture some interesting photos.

1. Out of focus lights

Focus on something closer than the lights on the Christmas tree and you will get the lovely out-of-focus effect in which the lights are turned into beautiful circles. A large aperture lens such as 50mm f/1.8 or 85mm f/1.8 is the most effective. The strength of the effect is controlled by the distance between the lights and the point of focus. Manually focus the lens closer, the circles become larger. You can read more about the topic here.

Let it bokeh, let it bokeh, let it bokeh
Creative Commons License Photo by: James Jordan

2. Make a bokeh

The out-of-focus lights have the same shape as the aperture of your lens, which is round or polygon shaped. If you cut a fancy shape in a card and attach it to your lens, you get the out-of-focus lights to show up with that shape! Check out this page for how it is done and these Flickr search results to get some inspiration.

snowflake bokeh texture3
Creative Commons License Photo by: nikkitambo

3. Camera toss

Create Abstract Light Art by Snapping a Camera-Toss Photo – Toss your camera up to capture some intriguing patterns of light. Also check out the Camera Toss blog and the Camear Toss Flickr group. If you want to try it, be careful not to drop the camera. ;-)

Camera Toss

4. Get closer

It is a little boring to snap a photo of the whole Christmas tree. Try to get closer and capture some finer details.

Christmas Tree

5. Capture the reflections

If you have some highly reflective glass ball Christmas tree ornaments, try to capture some reflections by getting very close to them. Due to the curved shape, you can capture a very large field of view that is not possible without a fish-eye lens. It is difficult to hide the camera or yourself but I think it is very nice to be able to get the photographer in a photo in such an unobtrusive manner.

Christmas Tree

6. Double/Multiple exposures

Many cameras now support this feature but it may be the least often used feature. If unsure, check the user manual of your camera. Basically you take two or more shots, different parts of the tree or at different zoom level (as shown in the following example) or whatever, the camera automatically merges them into a single photo.

Double exposure

7. Share your idea

Do you have any other interesting ideas about shooting Christmas trees? Please feel free to contribute using the comment form at the bottom of the page.


The HDR Debate – What’s All The Fuss?

The HDR Debate – What’s All The Fuss?

Building Museum HDR

Before I get started, let me just say that I am not looking to stir the flames that seemed to have been fanned by Trey Ratcliff’s guest blog appearance over at the Photoshop Insider this past Wednesday.  Trey wasn’t the one stirring things up, in fact his article really had nothing to do with HDR and was a very insightful piece that I highly recommend you read.  Here’s the thing though, Trey is most widely known for his HDR photography (he has just released a book of his HDR work) and in some circles is widely credited with popularizing the look with his heavily toned, brightly saturated images.  Of course Trey would be the first to downplay that analogy.  He’s just a guy that found something that he really enjoyed doing and was passionate about and shared it through his website, Stuck In Customs.  So why then is there such venom for over something that so many people have come to enjoy?

Seattle-4 HDR

There are those that might call themselves purists and will decry even the mentioning of HDR as incorrect and a bastardization of the true meaning of high dynamic range.  Are they correct?  Well, technically yes.  HDR is more about capturing the range of tones that fall outside of the normal dynamic range of a single image range.  It is a process to capture that extended tonal range through the use of multiple exposures, which are then combined into a 32-bit file that contains extended highlight and shadow detail.  When that information is squeezed back into an 8 or 16-bit file, those extended tones need to be mapped back into a gamut that can be seen and printed by today’s display technology, thus we get the term “tonemapping”.  Sounds complicated doesn’t it?  The simple truth is that the look that many adapters of HDR capture and processing can look over-the-top to some people.  I have heard it referred to as cartoonish or Harry Potterish.  Or, as someone said last Wednesday, “It Sux” and “isn’t real photography”.  It’s this type of statement that I have a problem with.

Juan Gris Portrait of Picasso

Juan Gris - Portrait of Picasso

The mere words imply that we must all conform to one person’s definition of what is good and what is bad.  What is art and what is trash.  So if this is the case, who’s opinion is the correct one?  Was it the person that said that Cubism isn’t art?  How about Surrealism, or pop-art, or any other art form that was new and innovative and “different” from the norm.  The truth is that, as much as it irritates some of you out there, the term HDR will forever be associated with a style of imaging, no matter what the process or software used.  There’s no since in fighting it because it is just too popular of a label now to ever get that genie back in the bottle.  As for whether or not HDR is art or not is not for me to say, at least not where you are concerned.  You will need to form your own opinion.  If you like it, great, if not, that’s okay too.  Just remember that any art form is subjective and open to self-interpretation.  Just as I don’t think that Campbell Soup cans are art, there are a lot of folks that would disagree.

Bone Yard 19 HDR

As for those of you that are interested in learning HDR and exploring what it has to offer, I say play to your heart’s content.  Photography should be personal before it is anything else.  If you like what you see and want to try your hand at it, then by all means, you should.  How many people do you think have ever tried to emulate the style and processes of Ansel Adams because they so loved the look of his images.  They may not have been successful but I bet they learned a lot along the way, which probably made them better photographers.   Just remember that you should always try to create for yourself.  Do the thing that inspires you the most and then work at it, rejoice in it, and, if you are brave enough to face the haters, share it with the rest of the world.

Related posts:

  1. HDR – The Debate Rolls On
  2. When HDR Goes Bad
  3. Photoshop vs. Photomatix Pro

   

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10 Reasons to Turn off Your Autofocus

10 Reasons to Turn off Your Autofocus

A Guest Post by Alistair Scott.

When I started using a camera autofocus was something out of science fiction. I mean … it would never work in real life, would it? Apart from anything else, how could it know what you wanted to focus on?

turn-off-auto-focus-01.jpg

Now fiction has become fact, and pretty well every camera has AF as standard. It works, and works well. But it doesn’t always work perfectly. It can pick up the wrong thing or fail to find anything to focus on, causing the lens to ‘hunt’ back and forth. Sometimes it won’t even let you fire the shutter.

So, here are ten situations when it’s worth turning your autofocus off and going back to the ‘good old days’ of manual focusing:

1. When there’s not enough light

In low light, contrast is also low, and AF relies on light and contrast to latch on to things. Your camera may have an AF assist lamp built in. But, even if you have it switched on, it won’t work in situations like in the shot above.

Though the image looks bright enough, in reality there was little light, and it required a 30-second exposure.

2. When there’s not enough contrast

If your AF metering spot is on something like a plain-coloured wall the camera will find it impossible to focus, no matter how bright the light, and the lens will ‘hunt’. You can re-frame your shot temporarily so the spot is on something with detail and press the shutter half down to activate the AF. Then keep the shutter button half-pressed to lock the focus, and go back to your original composition. Or focus by hand.

3. Shooting wildlife

Most wild animals have excellent hearing and, no matter how good your autofocus, it will make a noise. Even the slightest whirr is likely to spook wildlife. Switch it off if you want those great, natural wildlife shots.

4. With landscapes

When shooting landscapes you usually want things in focus from the foreground to distant mountains. This means closing down the aperture to increase depth of field and focusing about a third of the way into the scene (at a point called the ‘hyperfocal distance’ where everything from quite close to infinity is sharp). Switch off the AF. If you leave it on, when you press the shutter it will re-focus … probably on those far-off mountains.

5. If you’re doing HDR

High Dynamic Range photography involves taking several shots of the same scene, all exactly the same except for exposure, then blending them when you’re back at the computer. It’s important to have identical focus in each shot to ensure success. With AF on, it may choose a slightly different focus point for each shot.

6. Fast action

When you’re photographing a fast-moving subject, your AF will have its work cut out to keep up with the changing distances. Most times it fails. At this jump, in a radio-controlled buggy competition, I first started shooting in burst mode, with the AF switched on. This was the sort of thing I kept getting.

turn-off-auto-focus-02.jpg

turn-off-auto-focus-03.jpg

turn-off-auto-focus-04.jpg

It wasn’t until I switched the AF (and burst mode) off and pre-focused on a spot where most of the buggies landed that I started to get decent shots.

turn-off-auto-focus-05.jpg

7. Shooting through glass

Taking photographs through glass is generally not a good idea. Avoid it if you can. But sometimes it’s unavoidable, e.g. if you’re in a plane, or photographing fish in an aquarium. The trouble is, the AF may home in on reflections, or marks on the glass. So switch it off.

8. With portraits

The golden rule of portraiture is to focus on your subject’s eyes. What’s more, you often use a wide aperture to throw the background out of focus. But if your autofocus picks up your subject’s eyebrows or the tip of the nose then, because you’ve got such a narrow depth of field, the eyes will be blurred.

9. Macro

With macro photography autofocus has a hard time. The depth of field is so tiny that the camera has no idea what you want to focus on and the lens is likely to hunt wildly. You definitely must take control.

10. Composition with the ‘Rule of Thirds’

Many cameras have the autofocus spot fixed in the middle of the viewfinder. This means that if you’re composing with your subject at one of the classical ‘thirds’ positions it is likely to be out of focus.

turn-off-auto-focus-06.jpg

In this image a centralised autofocus would not pick up the boat and, on top of that, it would have difficulty latching to the smooth water of the lake.

So … autofocus is brilliant but it’s not infallible. A good photographer knows when to take control of the camera to get great shots in challenging situations

Alistair Scott is an award-winning freelance photographer and writer who has travelled the world widely. He lived for 20 years in Africa, but is now based in Switzerland. His latest book is ‘The LowDown Guide to Family Photography’, which can be seen at www.alscotts.com/fampage

Post from: Digital Photography School - Photography Tips.