100 Steps to IYP - Lesson 8 - Assignm...

100 Steps to IYP - Lesson 8 - Assignments and Critique

Posted by: Prajneet In: Photography| photography tips

Hello fellow shutterbugs… Do you know what I just finished?? An assignment. No, it wasn’t a photography assignment. It was a paper on Oscillator circuits, which has absolutely nothing to do with photography. But… Assignments… they are something very important for us photographers. Not because they pay well (of course that’s a great thing, but those are not the assignments that I’m talking about right now), but because they lead to immense growth as a photographer.

Today’s lesson in the Improve Your Photography series is about doing your homework and critiquing pictures.

TIP 1: Give yourself assignments… This, as stated above, is a very powerful way to learn a lot, really fast. Give yourself assignments, and treat them like homework. When I say treat that, I mean that there should be a certain level of commitment. Don’t do it just for the heck of it. Do it because you want to. When you know you have an assignment that has to be done, and that you have to do your best and live up to a certain level that you set for yourself, you automatically get that energy… the energy to wake up at 5 in the morning, go out in the freezing cold or blistering heat, get dirty and bruised, donate a liter of blood to mosquitoes, and in the end, come home with a photo that you will remember for a long time. It is one of the best feelings in the world, when your hard work pays off. You can give yourself theme based assignments like say ‘curves’ or ‘faces’ or ‘blur in everyday life’ or whatever you like. Start with topics you’re familiar with, and then move on to stuff that you haven’t experimented with yet. Once you’ve decided the topic, allot yourself a time frame, and make a genuine effort to capture shots that pertain to the theme. You can also go for ‘A Shot A Day’ type of assignment. Once this is taken care of, you move on to TIP 2.

TIP 2: Self Analysis and Critique The benefit of assignments comes in two parts. One is from the effort you make to get the picture. The second is by analyzing the pictures that you’ve got. Pick a picture that you don’t like too much, but one that you think has something right in it, and analyse it. What don’t you like? What you did wrong? What you would do differently, and why? Then pick a picture that you really like, and ask yourself why you like it? Do a detailed analysis with regard to the sharpness, focus, composition, choice of subject, lighting, and anything else you can think of. The more detail you go into, the more surprised you’ll be with what you learn.

TIP 3: Critique other people’s photographs Don’t restrict yourself to your own pictures. Spend time looking through other people’s photographs, and providing critique. Try not to offend the other person, that’s all And you really don’t have to be a pro to critique someone’s pictures . Its just a matter of opinion. “For best results, analyse the photograph in as much detail as possible”. Most photographers welcome honest constructive criticism, and it helps both the one taking and giving the criticism. I remember, there was this nice woman by the name of Marie, who used to take fantastic pictures of sunsets. She was so good that she was given the nickname of ‘Sunset Queen’ by the community members. I remember asking her for tips and she gave me only one, which is the one you’re reading right now.

TIP 4: Get others to critique your pictures Give criticism, take criticism. Be open to criticism. You’ll find comments that might offend you, or some which you simply disagree with, but you’ll also find comments that point out things you might never have thought of. And that is when the growth happens.

Knowledge is meant to be shared. Be a part of the sharing. Communicate with others in the same field, and you’ll end everyday with a new lesson learnt.

100 Steps to IYP - Lesson 7 - Creativ...

100 Steps to IYP - Lesson 7 - Creative Framing

Posted by: Prajneet In: Frames| Photography| photography tips

Have you ever looked at a photo in a photo frame, or maybe a properly enlarged and framed picture? Doesn’t it look nicer than an unframed print on paper? What is it about a frame that makes the picture look so much nicer? Whatever it may be, the fact is that frames are a great tool to make a good picture look even better. But why always frame later? Why not frame the picture, within itself? I’m talking about framing while composing the picture.

TIP 1: Use the surroundings to frame your subject… I think the best way to explain this one would be through pictures.

TIP 2: Make creative use of bokeh…

For those who are not aware, bokeh refers to the intentional blurring of a part of a photograph (usually the background) by using a shallow depth of field. Although most people prefer to blur the background in order to isolate the subject, blurred foreground elements can make very interesting frames.

TIP 3: Use Photoshop! Exactly! Although there are countless ways of framing your subject using elements from the environment, it is not necessary that you have to do that. You can always frame the subject later, and this is where photoshop comes in. Again, there are countless ways to create frames in photoshop. The pictures below should give an idea.

There are so many creative ways to ‘frame’ your subject that it really isn’t possible to categorise them and put them up separately. For example, you can look through a window, or use a shape cut-out, or arrange the elements by hand in a way such that it lends symmetry and gives a framed look, or you can use arches in old buildings, and so on and so forth.

Just this one tip can be implemented in so many ways that it deserved a separate post. I would love to see how you do it, so go ahead, post a link in the comments. I look forward to lots from you.

100 Steps to IYP - Lesson 1: The Basics

100 Steps to IYP - Lesson 1: The Basics

Posted by: Prajneet In: Photography| photography tips

And with this, we begin with the 100 Steps to Improve Your Photographs (IYP) series.

All right Cadets! Time for your first lesson! Before you can become a sharp shooter, you need to know how to use your gun (which here is your camera). So we’ll start with some basic tips (where many people mess up, are unaware, or simply don’t bother).

Tip 1: Hold your gun properly, or you’ll shoot your foot! One very basic thing that is responsible for shaky images is the way you hold your camera. I’ve seen many people holding their camera from both sides, like one would hold the steering wheel of a car. And doing this, they often end up with a finger in front of the flash. I’ve even seen people using a total of only four fingers to hold the camera. Correct that, four finger tips… the tip of the thumb and forefinger on each side, with all the fingers stretching outwards, like you’re holding something very dirty.

The correct way to hold your camera is to grip it from the right (all the better if your cam has a grip), and use your left hand to support the camera from below. This also allows for convenient handling of the lens in case of a dSLR.

Tip 2: Know your target, anticipate their moves… Clear and simple, try and predict the moment you want to capture, and then capture it. For example, if you’re shooting a basketball match, you can get an idea that there’s going to be a dunk if the attacker is in close to the basket. So know your subject and try to predict their moves and time your shot accordingly. If you’re using a point n shoot, you’ll need to press the shutter a little before the moment, since there is a considerable time lag compared to dSLRs.

Tip 3: Prepare to get dirty and take your aim from a different position… When I say this, I’m referring to the POV or the Point of View. Get low, get high, lie down on the ground, get up on a tree, get a view from behind, get a view from inside, experiment with POV. Use different vantage points, odd angles, and again, experiment!

This picure shows a creative POV and also shows how you should hold your camera! (Photo by Occhiovivo)

Tip 4: Keep out the distraction, crop in on the target… Don’t have enough zoom? No worries. Can’t get close enough? No worries. Can’t keep some stupid distracting object out of the frame because of that? Improvise. CROP. Many a time you may end up in a situation where you just can’t get a closer view, but you know that’s the subject you want to capture. This is where a high megapixel count helps, because it allows you to crop your image keeping only the desired subject in the frame and leaving out all else, or simply getting a closer view of the subject. This is especially helpful in wildlife photography.

Original Picture

After Cropping (This is an example of how effective and helpful cropping can be)

Tip 5: Aim, and SHOOT! And keep shooting till you hit the target. You have digital. That means practically unlimited ammo. So take advantage of that and don’t restrict yourself from taking multiple shots. Allow yourself to experiment. Or simply keep shooting until you get the right shot. This doesn’t mean that you neglect the value of every shot. Try your best to make every shot count. But if you feel like it, shoot, shoot and then shoot a little more.

Tip 6: Learn from every shot Don’t simply keep the shots that you like and delete the rest. Analyse where you went wrong, what you don’t like about them or what you would’ve done differently. And then, after you’ve learnt from your mistakes, you may do whatever you wish to with the remains

This ends lesson one. Learn, practice and grow. And then we move on to the next lesson. And this particular Sergeant welcomes your comments and suggestions on this drill! Dismissed!

100 Steps to IYP – Lesson 6 – Still Life

100 Steps to IYP – Lesson 6 – Still Life

Posted by: Prajneet In: Photography| photography tips

Still life and table top photography is one category that tests a photographer’s creativity as well as technical skill. It is also one that gives you an immense amount of control over your subject, from lighting to composition. You don’t necessarily need to have a studio and professional lighting equipment to practice still life photography. You can do it right in the comfort of your own home, with these tips to aid you:

TIP 1: Experiment with lighting The key component in still life photography is lighting. The source of light as well as the direction makes a world of difference to the picture. You have the option of using daylight streaming through a window, or using artificial lighting from various sources. Varying white balance settings with the same source of light also provides interesting variations. Depending on what you want to achieve, you may want to avoid colour casts. As for the direction of light, side lighting s generally used to lend a 3D appearance to the image, front lighting for a rather flat one, and backlighting for a dramatic effect. Of course, you can try different settings and see what suits you best.

TIP 2: Use the right background Getting the background wrong can often destroy an otherwise wonderful image. Still lifes are generally shot with plain backgrounds (mostly black or white). You can use plain sheets, velvet, or colour cards to begin with. It is advisable to use an aperture setting that gets the subject sharp and blurs the background lest it should interfere with the subject. If you’re comfortable and used to still life, you can also try textured backgrounds (like wooden table tops).

TIP 3: Keep it clean

Don’t be tempted to add more and more objects to your composition at once. Start small, and gradually, step by step, add objects, placing them carefully so that their shadows don’t interfere with anything. And even then, don’t crowd the frame. Pictures of a single subject (like an apple or a pear say) can be surprisingly high impact.

TIP 4: Play with colours and composition Experiment with different coloured objects and contrasting colours. Or you can also try a single colour tone or shoot monochromatic images. Selective colouring is a great tool that really makes the subject stand out and enhances the picture greatly. Vibrant colours usually create a high energy image while dull colours are more on the softer, calmer side. Also, play with your subjects and their arrangement. The rule of the thirds works pretty well here.

TIP 5: Get Creative… Think, imagine, let your creativity flow. Try different compositions, try different combinations, try different settings, make an effort! As I stated above, still life tests a photographers creativity, and the best part is, there’s no limits! From the choice of subject, to the way it is presented, it is entirely up to you.

I myself haven’t experimented too much with still life, but writing this post inspired me to get back to still life again. I hope it helps you too. I would love to know, so keep your comments coming

100 Steps to IYP – Lesson 5 – People

100 Steps to IYP – Lesson 5 – People

Posted by: Prajneet In: Photography| photography tips

Next on our list of common and popular subjects are people… of all cultures, all religions, all colours, of one humanity. People make great subjects for their expressions are priceless. But to be priceless in a picture, they need to be captured right, and that is what we aim at helping you achieve with this lesson… 4 tips to capture the expressions of the face, of the body, of the people…

TIP 1: Capture the emotion of the face… The human face is capable of innumerable expressions… of joy, of sadness, of fear, of anger, and countless others… and the textures of the skin, the wrinkles, all add to every expression. And capturing these textures gives life to the picture. Also, the eyes are actually like windows to the soul, so expressive they are… Try and capture the expressions and the depth in a person’s eyes and face.

Photo by hiro008

TIP 2: The face is just one part of the body… capture others as well… Every part of the body conveys some message or the other. A dancer’s feet, a guitarist’s hands, an athlete’s muscles, all make wonderful subjects. Such shots can be used to say many things about the individual… like what they do for a living, for instance; or simply highlight the contours of the human body.

Photo by madabandon

TIP 3: Use body language to narrate… The body language of a person, along with expressions, conveys a lot. Try and capture the body language of people in ways such that it narrates a story, tells about the relation between the people in the picture, or tells about the person only. The way he/she stands, the way he/she holds something, the tilt of their neck… little things like these can make a dramatic impact.

Photo by lulazzo

TIP 4: Go candid… When people are aware of the fact that they are being photographed, consciously or subconsciously, their behaviour changes. It becomes artificial at times. Candid photos, captured without the knowledge of the subject, often turn out great because then there is no artificiality about the behaviour, and you end up capturing them in positions/times that would never happen if they were aware that you were taking a picture. However, it is always good to interact with the subject later, and take their consent to keep/use the picture.

Photo by nubui

The last tip alone can lead to some very exciting shots. Go ahead, give it a try. We would love to know your experience. Your comments and suggestions are valuable, so keep them coming!

100 Steps tp IYP - Lesson 3 - Magical...

100 Steps tp IYP - Lesson 3 - Magical Landscapes

Posted by: Prajneet In: Photography| photography 101

Perhaps one of the most common and most beautiful subjects in photography, landscapes are something every photographer shoots at least for some time during his/her photographic journey. And with a lot of photographers, landscapes continue to be a subject of high popularity. And that isn’t really surprising given their mesmerising beauty.

It often so happens that you come across a scene that leaves you spellbound, and you want to capture the beauty as you see it, in your camera. But somehow, what you saw in front of your eyes and what you end up with on your computer screen are two very different scenes.

For this lesson, we’ll be discussing some sure shot tips which will make sure that what you capture is what you saw, or even better. Here we are then, with tips to improve your landscape photography…

TIP 1: Use the right equipment Use a tripod. Use a remote or cable shutter release. This will mean you take lesser but sharper pictures. Also, although it isn’t a compulsion, general opinion would support that wide angle lenses are more appropriate for landscapes. First, they allow you to capture a wider area, and offer a very nice distortion at the edges that lends a dramatic feel to the landscape. Second, the shorter the focal length, the more is the depth of field at the same aperture, and so, wide angle also means more depth of field, which is important while shooting landscapes. Next we come to filters. Polarizing filters are like a blessing for landscape photographers. They eliminate lens flare, and glare due to reflections. Plus, they saturate the colours esp. the blue of the sky & sea, and reflections if any, leading to a much nicer tones. And they also enhance cloud formations by the way. Another commonly used filter for landscapes is the neutral density or the ND filter. An ND filter is a grey coloured filter that reduces the amount of light entering your lens. This allows you to take longer exposures without burning out the highlights, the best example being the silky effect on a waterfall/river. You can also use graduated filters that allow to colour/darken a part (or different parts) of the frame.

A polarizing filter was used here to saturate the colours (Photo by Meredith_Farmer)

TIP 2: Wait for the right time to get the right light Professional photographers often plan their shoots weeks in advance, and when the day comes, they wait for hours for the perfect light. And when they get THAT shot, it’s all worth the wait. The light is often the least considered element… its always the scenery… but we tend to forget that the without the light, the scenery wouldn’t be there. It is for a fact that the best times to shoot are the ‘golden hours’ of dawn and dusk, because then the light is at its purest. The colours, the angles, and the clean air give the most desirable illumination to the scene, and bring out the textures beautifully. Also, many people often prefer to go out on a well lit day to get good pictures, but overcast days can also lead to extremely striking overtones especially when it comes to landscapes. Cloudy skies with sun rays filtering through the clouds, or a misty day with classic mountain silhouettes… sounds great doesn’t it? And sometimes you come across a scene that you can shoot time and again, the only difference being light, and come back with amazing pictures every time. So if you find a scene that you think has potential, don’t hesitate from coming back specially to get that shot. Also, another small piece of advice - avoid shooting landscapes during the afternoon. The light is harsh and extra bright and often causes harsh shadows that are in no way desirable.

TIP 3: Perspective and depth… Including a person/animal/object gives an illustration of the size which adds a wow factor to the photograph. Try and include one of the above in your photograph to emphasize the size and expanse of the landscape. But be careful not to clutter your frame. Keep it as clean as possible.

Photo by darkmatter

Photo by Tambako_the_Jaguar

TIP 4: Foreground, Background and the split called the Horizon… Lets illustrate this one with examples. If you have an interesting foreground and a relatively bland sky, place the horizon towards the upper third of the frame and emphasize the foreground. If you see an interesting cloud formation, and the foreground is nothing special, place the horizon towards the bottom of the frame and capture the clouds. And contrary to popular opinion, the horizon in the centre CAN give some striking results, but not always. Also, when you spot an interesting scene, don’t just get your camera out, put it to your eye and start clicking. Look for an interesting point of view. Lie down, or look for high vantage point. MAKE AN EFFORT!

This photo places the horizon really low, capturing the sunrays filtering through the clouds, and the people towards the bottom right give an idea of the massiveness of the whole scene.

The horizon here has been placed very appropriately to block out the bland sky and enhance the wonderful foreground. A polarizer was used to take this picture (Photo by matt.hintsa)

TIP 5: Focus for the Hyperfocal distance This refers to the focusing distance beyond which everything will be in sharp focus. As a rough measure, if you’re shooting at f/16, focusing at a distance of 16 feet will lead to max depth of field. It varies from lens to lens however, and it is good to carry a chart that tells you the hyperfocal distance at different apertures. This you can make yourself courtesy the internet

TIP 6: Go RAW and HDR RAW gives the best tonal variations and detail among all formats, since there is no loss of information in compression. If you have the option, shoot in RAW. Also, HDR (High Dynamic Range) has gained immense popularity, and rightly too. HDR allows you to get amazing detail in shadows and highlights both, and is easy to do with today’s software.

HDR Photo by etrusia_uk

Landscape photography is an endless discussion. But the above tips will definitely make a difference in your pictures. And of course, practice makes perfect. If I missed anything important, please feel free to add it in the comments!

100 Steps to IYP - Lesson 2: Moods…

100 Steps to IYP - Lesson 2: Moods…

Posted by: Prajneet In: Photography| photography tips

“Every picture should convey a mood” said someone. And they were right. I am of the opinion that whatever you do in life, it is the ‘feel’ that matters. And when it comes to photography, dramatic and moody photographs have this instant appeal, that hooks your attention.

So for our second lesson, I won’t talk about the rule of the thirds, leading lines, or any of the stuff that I’m bored with. I’ll talk about creating a moody picture and the tools that help you do that.

TIP 1: Use light… dramatic light… Photography is essentially a play of light, and it is light, or the absence of it, that makes your pictures what they are. How, where, and what light is falling can make all the difference in a photograph. Once again, experiment. Use side light, top light, back light and any other direction you can think of. Play with sources of light. Candle light can lend a very dramatic feel to a portrait. The light during rainy weather or during dawn and dusk can lead to brilliant colour tones in landscapes.

Photo by b3ni (using an N95)

TIP 2: Don’t use light… Use the absence of it… Normally as photographers we would want maximum light to capture maximum detail. Naturally present shadows, if there, are fine. If not, then also it’s not too much of an issue. But intentionally including and using shadows can lead to some very amazing photographs. You can use shadows to frame or even to highlight the subject. Shadows can transform your pictures from flat to 3D, and even create interesting patterns that accentuate your picture. In fact, texture cannot be felt without shadows.

TIP 3: Shoot Silhouettes… Silhouettes, apart from their obvious mood creating potential, also keep the viewer guessing. The simple absence of detail except the shape and outline is enough to give hints about the subject (or even make it very obvious) and at the same time leaving the viewer wondering. Also, action silhouettes like people jumping or running or throwing something can have a much higher impact than well lit shots of the same. Coupled with a dramatic backdrop, silhouettes very nicely illustrate the aesthetic value of shapes and forms.

Photo by Raphael

TIP 4: Use monotone…

Black and white, especially those with high contrast, can again lead to very powerful images. In fact, many pictures that would otherwise look bland and average in normal colour can turn out to be extremely captivating in high contrast b&w. Not only black & white, even tones like sepia can impart a moody and ‘old’ feel to the picture. You do not have to limit yourselves to these two tones only. Play with warm and cool filters and see the results you get. You don’t have to buy filters necessarily; you can adjust the white balance to get plenty of in-camera filters.

Photo by Erman

TIP 5: Noise, Blur and Depth of Field… … can all be used in different ways for interesting results. Noise can be coupled with monotone for a vintage feel. It also enhances journalistic pictures (as in photojournalism). Blur can be used to convey a sense of motion as in panning shots, or action using radial blur (where you zoom in or out during the exposure). Depth of field used creatively can result in photographs with a very dreamy feel to them, especially soft focused portraits.

Remember, all the tips I’m putting up here will need lots of implementation and experimentation. Combine two or more of the above points and see what you get. Use them independently and see what you get. If you went through the last lesson carefully, you would remember a very important tip “SHOOT, SHOOT and SHOOT some more”.

I look forward to your experiences. Comments, queries and critique are welcome as always

100 Steps to IYP - Lesson 9 - Flowers…

100 Steps to IYP - Lesson 9 - Flowers…

Posted by: Prajneet In: Photography| photography tips

This morning, I spotted a beautiful looking flower that I had not seen before. It was 5:30 in the morning. The weather was heavenly, and I must’ve stood there looking at the pretty little thing for almost half an hour. Such soft petals, a brilliant mix of pink and blue, they looked mesmerising against the rising sun.

There really is no end to nature’s beauty, is there? And we’re lucky to be able to capture it through are lil’ click-boxes Jokes apart, spending time with the beautiful bloom in the morning encouraged me to write this lesson on flower photography. So without further ado, here we are:

TIP 1: Get Low This is always the first thing I say whenever discussing flower photography, and this is the biggest mistake beginners make. Fine, you’re taller than the plant! But that does not mean you have to always look down on the flower and shoot that way. Kneel down and shoot from the level of the flower. Move around, try different angles. Of course, shooting down can also give great results at times

TIP 2: The time of the day… Straight and simple - avoid harsh midday sunlight. It creates unpleasant shadows, and washes out the colours of the flowers. The contrast may at times look pleasing to the naked eye, but the camera sensor disagrees The best time to shoot flowers is early morning or late afternoon. The soft light at these times saturates the colours and enhances the already divine beauty of the blooms. An overcast day is often perfect to shoot some flowers. But a windy day will create trouble because flowers are very easily moved by the slightest breeze, and may lead to unwanted blur. A tripod of course will be of much use. In fact you’ll end up paying a lot more attention to every composition rather than shooting away without thinking.

TIP 3: The right light…

As stated above, the best light is during early mornings and late afternoons. The light then is soft and diffused, and so brings out the texture and the colours of the petals. But if you aren’t getting that brilliant soft lighting, why don’t you soften it yourself. Use a white piece of cloth, or maybe some butter paper to diffuse the light. If not that, you can also try using some home-made aluminium foil reflectors to fill in the distracting shadows. Sounds like boring work, but its pretty darn effective. Also, backlighting works brilliantly with flowers. Shoot with the light source between you and the flower, and the translucency in the petals is like jewellery!

Outdoors isn’t the only way to go. You can buy some flowers and set up a mini studio inside your own room. All you need is an external flash, a diffuser/softbox which you can make yourself, a background of your choice, and your camera. You can get an idea of the set up from the picture below.

TIP 4: Keep the background at the back… I mean here that the background should not be distracting. Often while taking pictures of flowers, the background can be quite messy, with all the leaves and weeds and other flowers. Here you can do two things: Use a shallow DOF to blur the background, and make an effort to frame the picture such that the background distraction is minimized. You can also make your own background, whether outside or inside. Just put a black (ideally) sheet behind the flower (prop it on some sort of stand, or get someone to hold it for you), and wallah! This generally gives better results inside though, because of the more controlled environment. Some people suggest avoiding white backgrounds as they tend to distract, but I suggest you experiment and choose the background according to the flower. A background that complements the colour of the petals is always preferable.

TIP 5: The right depth of field… Okay, personally, I prefer a very shallow depth of field in my flower pictures (which are often macros). I like the brilliant dreamy effect it lends to the flower. But I’ve also seen many great pictures with the whole flower sharp and in focus (this is often done when shooting indoors studio style). When shooting outside, a single flower looks much better with a soft bokeh at the back. When taking a picture of say a field of flowers, however, you will obviously need to use a longer depth of field and therefore a smaller aperture.

People in flower fields make very interesting pictures. Play with the composition to avoid monotony though

TIP 6: Go Macro… Flowers make some of the most mesmerising macros. They look perfect no matter the distance. In fact, the closer you get, the prettier they look. Use a good 1:1 macro lens and a tripod, and get inside the flower. Be careful not to damage the flower though.

TIP 7: Decorations! Water droplets, snow, ice, frost and anything else that you may happen to find on a flower, including insects, is likely to enhance the photograph.

Remember, flowers are delicate and fragile, and can get damaged easily. Try your best to avoid this. And don’t pick flowers to photograph them. If you want to do that, buy some from a florist instead.

I hope you will find a difference in your pictures IF you implement these tips. I haven’t put too much on composition because that is something dependent entirely on your imag